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Steve's Cruiser F45 restoration help thread

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Steve's Cruiser F45 restoration help thread

Post  fulmar88 on Thu Jan 15, 2015 2:02 pm

I've decided to give me a chance of finding the info in future that all of my questions / requests for help regarding my Cruiser restoration will be in one thread. 2 simple questions to start me off.

1. My steering damper is devoid of friction disc(s). Looking online at BSA and similar types they seem to have 2 friction discs either side of a steel disc. Is the FB one like this or is it just one friction disc.

2. The top of the shaft on my bike doesn't have the knob. It seems to be a nut and maybe a spacer. Neither of these parts looks like they are separate to the shaft but this may be crud, paint or similar hiding the fact. I don't want to be too rough before I know how it fits together.



Any advice welcomed,
Steve.
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fulmar88

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Re: Steve's Cruiser F45 restoration help thread

Post  Maurice on Mon Jan 19, 2015 4:01 pm

Hi Steve
I am away for some weeks but I think the knob is moulded onto the shaft although how they moulded that type of material I do not know.

If you find a source of the damper friction material let us all know please.

Maurice

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Re: Steve's Cruiser F45 restoration help thread

Post  fulmar88 on Mon Jan 26, 2015 1:04 pm

Maurice, I decided to get a bit rough and managed to free the spacer off the shaft. The remnants of the knob (the nut) was refusing to budge even after 3 days soaking. As I don't need it it was removed with the help of a hacksaw and nut splitter. I bought an original knob about 10 years ago and that is now fitted. As for friction discs these are the closest I can find to the 2" OD, 3/4" ID required. Still not sure if one or two are needed. See the listing in the link for Velocette No.20 M Webb Girder Fork (2"x13/16", 2mm thick), and BSA B/M/A Series, Pt no. 65-5380 (2 1/4"x 3/4", 2.5mm thick).

http://www.mopedland.ukfsn.org/friction/

EDIT: The BSA ones are also available here:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221654832470?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Steve.
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steering damper

Post  kerabo on Mon Jan 26, 2015 4:07 pm

I have a Sunbeam S8 that uses BSA forks and the steering damper is just like that so look at BSA or look at Stewarts Sunbeam where you will find exploded views.

http://www.stewartengineering.co.uk/Plate.asp?id=6

Ken
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Re: Steve's Cruiser F45 restoration help thread

Post  fulmar88 on Mon Jan 26, 2015 4:40 pm

Thanks Ken. I'll have a look at both sides of the fixed plate. There should be evidence of wear on both sides if it had two discs originally. If that is the case then I am missing the lowest large washer but that can easily be obtained.

Steve.
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Front Fork legs dis-assembly

Post  fulmar88 on Mon Mar 02, 2015 12:09 pm

I struggled for an hour yesterday to remove the front fork legs from my pre-war Cruiser and ultimately failed. I removed the top through stud without difficulty, and then removed the outside nuts and cup washers from the middle (last remaining) stud on each leg. I must be missing something because even though each leg will rotate freely, and the stud and spacers on it rotate freely the legs themselves refuse to budge. Everything feels slack and has free play I just can't pull the leg off the stud. Anyone any ideas what I am missing?? I tried knocking the stud through but this feels rock solid. I'm stumped.

Steve.
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forks

Post  piston 197 on Mon Mar 02, 2015 1:19 pm

Jh Goddard's book suggest in the case of seized spindles brute force will be required, and if this is not sufficient then drilling may be required, apparently only the links at the squared end of the spindles are threaded, at the other end the links have plain holes .
JH
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Re: Steve's Cruiser F45 restoration help thread

Post  fulmar88 on Mon Mar 02, 2015 2:11 pm

Thanks John. I've been hitting the stud pretty hard but I can try again. What I don't understand though is that if the stud is free to rotate, and the legs and spacers rotate what is it that can be seized? I wondered if the stud has a groove worn in it and the plates have moved down into the grooves preventing the stud from being drifted out. This doesn't explain why the fork legs themselves won't just pull off though. It looks like they just push over the stud and the outside nut/cup washers are fitted. I even resorted to a scissor jack and two pieces of wood to try to prise the legs apart. I was cautious but they didn't feel like they wanted to give.
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Re: Steve's Cruiser F45 restoration help thread

Post  fulmar88 on Thu Mar 05, 2015 7:19 am

Well I finally managed to free the fork blades (legs). It occurred to me that there must be a crush tube inside each leg and this must be revolving with the stud, perhaps not by design. I was slightly worried that when the stud eventually came free that the crush tube would fall into the bottom of the leg but our friends at F&B had allowed for that. Anyway after judicious use (not) of my biggest hammer the stud started to move. 10 minutes later each leg was free. 79 years of corrosion had done its best to join the crush tubes and stud together. The crush tube is free to rotate within the fork leg, by design, as it is slightly longer than the thickness of the leg and locates in a 'dimple' pressed in each face of the leg. There is a cup washer that sits on this 'dimple' each side to spread the load when tightened and to also give a move positive location of the stud assembly to prevent movement under load.

Steve.
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Steve's Cruiser F45 restoration thread

Post  Maurice on Fri May 01, 2015 8:55 pm

May I return to the damper friction pads?

Photograph 1 shows the Sunbeam set up from the link above. It clearly shows two friction pads and a circular disc below the lower one.

Photograph 2 shows what I have.

The only way the anchor plate (Item 4) will fit is to hook under the stud, which seems odd. Am I correct?
Assuming so then there are witness marks on the underside only, suggesting only one friction disc.
Like Steve I am missing the circular disc shown on the Sunbeam drawing, which would go between my Item 2 and Item 3. Is this a coincidence or was it never there on the Cruiser. If it should be there how thick is it as I can easily make one.

Any help much appreciated.

Maurice

http://tinypic.com/r/2u4m3xg/8

http://tinypic.com/r/sngn6t/8

Maurice

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Hand-change Pivot bracket

Post  fulmar88 on Thu Aug 13, 2015 11:16 am

This bracket seems to be different on later models with the bigger tank so I am after a drawing with dimensions, or a photo at least of the bracket that the hand gear-change lever pivot bolt connects to on a 1936 or 37 (frame prefix FB or GB) Cruiser. If anyone has a bike in bits and could post up a drawing or photo it would be greatly appreciated. Searching for parts when you don't know what you are looking for is very frustrating.

Thanks,
Steve.
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Steve's Cruiser F45 restoration help thread

Post  Maurice on Thu Aug 13, 2015 12:58 pm

Hi Steve
My 1935 bike has prefix EB.
Would it be of help to you to have pictures and dimensions of the gear change bracket.
I have not yet put the tank on so can easily photograph and measure.
Maurice

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Re: Steve's Cruiser F45 restoration help thread

Post  fulmar88 on Thu Aug 13, 2015 1:00 pm

Maurice wrote:Hi Steve
My 1935 bike has prefix EB.
Would it be of help to you to have pictures and dimensions of the gear change bracket.
I have not yet put the tank on so can easily photograph and measure.
Maurice

Hi Maurice, thinking about it the tank on your bike is almost certainly the same as mine so the bracket may well be so too. If you don't mind that would be extremely helpful.

Thanks,
Steve.
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fulmar88

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Steve's Cruiser F45 restoration help thread

Post  Maurice on Thu Aug 13, 2015 1:59 pm

Here follows 4 pictures








Dimensions

Width 7/8" Top 6 1/4" Lower 3/1/8" Protruding to right side 2" Difficult to measure as frame and bracket both taper.
Upper tapers about 10 deg down, lower tapers about 45 deg up to place gearshift bolt centre of frame.

Hope this is clear and helps. If not come back

Maurice

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Re: Steve's Cruiser F45 restoration help thread

Post  fulmar88 on Thu Aug 13, 2015 2:08 pm

Thanks Maurice, that's fantastic. Nothing like what I was expecting and nothing like the bit of angle iron on my bike. The only thing I can't see, but from the dimensions you give I think I understand, is whether the lower arm stops short and is bolted to the upper arm using the central bolt and a spacer tube?

Thanks again,
Steve.
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Steve's Cruiser F45 restoration help thread

Post  Maurice on Thu Aug 13, 2015 2:27 pm

Both upper and lower are bolted to frame directly by short bolt. The frame is quite stiff and it did not occur to put a spacer in between. (My bike came as a box of parts!) In fact the bracket comes up as part no 1588 and no spacer is shown.

Maurice

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Re: Steve's Cruiser F45 restoration help thread

Post  fulmar88 on Thu Aug 13, 2015 2:32 pm

Hi Maurice, I think I explained it badly but I now understand from your reply. Basically the top 'arm' bolts to both frame members with a short bolt, and the lower 'arm' only bolts to the RH frame member, also with a short bolt. The central bolt I was referring to looks like it maybe mounts the horn on your bike rather than connects the upper and lower arms to each other as I thought.

Steve.
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Steve's Cruiser F45 restoration help thread

Post  Maurice on Thu Aug 13, 2015 2:38 pm

We could create a record here for number of posts.

I have indeed used the centre hole to mount a modern 6 volt horn totally concealed from sight, eventually.
However when I looked at the parts list the centre hole should be used to hold a tank mounting rubber.

Maurice

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Re: Steve's Cruiser F45 restoration help thread

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