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Rectifier wiring

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Rectifier wiring

Post  Greecegun on Mon Feb 10, 2014 6:16 pm

Me again !!
i have got the Merlin running like a sowing machine, and had a blustery ride out on Saturday....but my issues being that running the bike im not getting any charge back into the battery -IE amp meter showing negative as im riding with the lights on etc, (for safety)
i have insulated the rectifier from the frame with plastic bolts, but the main lead from the engine, ie the electric feed should this be in contact with the rectifier unit, or just the frame of the bike. as the wire diagram shows that it is wired to one corner of the rectifier but not shows if the wire is connected next to the rectifier, or connect below the insulation and onto the frame ?? bit confused ...as I am thinking if i swap the wire round and put the positive charge to the rectifier case this might be the answer...i must say the the rectifier is original and looking a bit worn ! but thought that there are now working parts , so would stick with it as opposed to buy one from Paul Goff..
so if someone can guide me please...
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Greecegun

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charging

Post  piston 197 on Mon Feb 10, 2014 8:16 pm

Firstly, the charging system will not keep up when running with the lights on, Inherrent design fault I am afraid, secondly the insulation in those old rectifiers crack and they leak charge like a bucket with a hole leaks water, Yes a new solid state rectifier will help , but the charging system is just not up to running with the lights on at all times,#JH
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piston 197
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singe phase

Post  Greecegun on Mon Feb 10, 2014 8:24 pm

So do i look to get a single phase rectifier ! as have tried also without the lights off and running as nothing seemed to be happening regarding the amp meter, was at least expecting some sort of movement with the needle in a positive way but zilch !!
also the wiring does the positive live from the dyno have to be in touch with the rectifier or just to the bike frame ? or do you think i need to star with a new one ?
just im a tight git and didn't want to spend another 40... everything seems to cost 40 quid or more !!
cheers
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Greecegun

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charging

Post  piston 197 on Mon Feb 10, 2014 8:31 pm

Firstly with either a meter or bulb I would check to see if there is any power coming out of the flywheel generator, if there is nothing coming out of the generator a rectifier will not make a jot of difference. If you have in excess of 6 volts coming from the charging coils then investing in a rectifier should prove worthwhile, ask the supplier for wiring instruction for your particular usage. if need be send them a wiring diagram and ask them to show how you should connect it. If they sell the item , they should know how it should be used.
JH
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Re: Rectifier wiring

Post  Jack Clegg on Tue Feb 11, 2014 1:18 pm

Surely if you have the AC direct lighting position on your switch, and the lights work & brighten with revs, then power is being delivered. I thought all of these bikes had the direct lighting option, even with Rectifier/battery fitted?
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4 position switch

Post  piston 197 on Tue Feb 11, 2014 1:30 pm

Yes, all should have OFF P H DIRECT 4 position switches, the DIRECT position being Villiers nod to the fact their generator system would not keep up battery charge when running with lights on in the H position, and the unreliability of batteries 70 years ago.
JH
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charging

Post  Greecegun on Tue Feb 11, 2014 8:50 pm

i will check to see whats coming out the alternator, as this might be the issue, i don't think i have switch it on to direct power so will give this a go first of all. then can work my way back... thank you ... but got to say she runs like a little dream.. OK not the fastest of bikes, but handles and rides really nice, its been all worth the sweat and tears to see her back on the road..
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Charging etc

Post  falcone on Wed Feb 12, 2014 9:51 am

The wire coming from the engine is the AC feed from the alternator. It should definitely not be connected to the frame as this would create a short circuit and you risk damaging the alternator coils. It should be connected to one of the AC terminals of a rectifier. Since, as has been pointed out, the original is likely to not be working properly, you can replace it with a modern one. I have used a GBPC2504 (you can check it on google) which is rated at 25A (more than enough in this application), which cost around 3-4 from RS or Maplin. You can buy something similar from Paul Goff. On these rectifiers, the positive terminal is the one next to the chamfered corner, the diagonally opposite is the negative and the other two are the AC terminals.
Your connections should be:
Wire from generator to either one of the AC terminals. There should be another wire from this same terminal which goes to the headlamp switch to provide power when in 'direct lighting' position.
The positive terminal on the rectifier should be connected to a good frame earth and the negative goes to the ammeter.
Rectifiers do generate some heat, so should be mounted on some sort of heatsink - I used a piece of aluminium sheet the same size as the original rectifier and painted black. The rectifier is bolted to the underside (on an unpainted part) with some heatsink compound.
This system is unregulated (as per the original). I have read that some modern batteries such as the cyclon type are more vulnerable to overcharging, so if you have this type, you could consider a rectifier regulator instead. This would cost about 30-40 and it needs to be suitable for a single phase alternator, not a 3 phase or a dynamo.
Good luck!
Marcus

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Charging

Post  Greecegun on Wed Feb 12, 2014 7:02 pm

Thank you Marcus...
i will print off you message and trace it back in connection with the wire diagram.
when i stripped it down, i kept the whole wire loom in one piece and even kept the head lamp and switch intact, i took photos of most bits so i could see how they went back, but never took one of how the rectifier was sitting on the frame, and the ac wire coming up to this part of the bike. as when i first put it back i never insulated the rectifier so i had a small fire work display of when wire where touching etc. but then read further and connected it with plastic nut / bolt and some rubber washers to keep it of the four lugs it sits on.. and as said i didn't know where the main lead went - IE on the top making contact with the rectifier or underneath to the frame..
but any way thank you for the advice and will give it a go..

Jon
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Re: Rectifier wiring

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